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7 tips to replicate your bike fit on another bike

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Once you’ve had a fit and you’re happy with your position, what’s the easiest way to recreate that set-up on another bike?

The most accurate option is to get a bike fit on the second bike as well. We offer discounts for returning customers and also offer a discounted multi-bike package too. If these aren’t an option, then below are some useful tips that might help.

The first place to start is by ensuring your saddles, pedal model/type and crank lengths are the same across both bikes. If this isn’t possible, we have a few cheats at the bottom of this page to help account for these variables.

Saddle Height
Measure from the centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the saddle. To ensure you’re doing this the same way every time, it’s best to measure the saddle front to back, note the mid-point and then measure you saddle height to there.

Saddle Fore-aft
Drop a plumb line down through the centre of the bottom bracket and from the string to the front tip of the saddle. Recreate that measurement on your second bike. You might need to go back and check height if the fore-aft has moved significantly.

Bar reach
Place a straight edge across your hoods, up against the back where the gap between your thumb and forefinger would be when holding the bars. Drop the plumb line down through the bottom bracket again, and measure forwards to the far side of the straight edge. Recreate this measurement on your second bike. It might involve swapping a stem but don’t adjust saddle fore-aft to accommodate a difference, as it’ll throw off your position. You may end up a few mm either side of the exact measurement as stems mostly increase in 10mm increments, but get as close as you can.

Bar drop
Keeping the straight edge in place, measure down to the floor from the bottom of the straight edge. Now measure vertically from the top of the saddle (mid-point front to back, as above) to the ground. Subtract the saddle height from the bar height and you have your bar drop. Adjust the bar position on your second bike to recreate this measurement.

If you have different components across the two bikes, then it can make it difficult to get it exactly right. Below are some tips that might help, but if you’re not sure then booking in for a fit is the best option.

What do I do if I have different saddles?
People sit in different places on different saddles and it can make up to 20-30mm of difference. So if you recreate the position based on the nose of the saddle, you might yourself over-reaching to the bars or feeling like they’re far too close. As a short-term solution (until you buy the same saddle as your other bike, which really is the best option!) you can estimate the position based on saddle width.

Drop a plumb line down through the bottom bracket, the same as in the example above, but this time measure back to the point where the saddle is 10cm wide. Replicate this distance on your other bike.

This measurement tries to estimate where you sit on the saddle and account for different saddles having different length noses. It’s only an estimate but it definitely better than measuring to the nose.

What do I do if my cranks are different length?
If your cranks are shorter, then you raise your saddle by the amount the cranks are shorter. For example, if your first bike has 172.5mm cranks but the bike you’re trying to replicate your position on has 170mm cranks, then you’d just raise the saddle 2.5mm higher on the second bike than it’s set on the first.

If your cranks are longer, then you lower the saddle on the second bike instead.

Even if the difference is 5mm, that change to the saddle height will make little difference to saddle fore-aft so I wouldn’t worry too much about it.

What do I do if my pedals are different?
Pedals vary in the distance between the centre of the axle and the sole of your shoe. This is called pedal stack height and there are several sites online that list stack heights for most common models of pedal.

If your second bike has a pedal with higher stack, then you need to raise your saddle by the difference. For example, if my first bike had Shimano Ultegra pedals at 13.7mm and my second bike had some first generation Look Keo pedals at 17.1mm, then I’d run the saddle on my second bike around 3mm higher.

If your second bike has a pedal with a lower stack, then you do the opposite and run a lower saddle on your second bike.

Hopefully this has helped you get your bikes feeling the same, but if they’re still not quite right then get in touch and we’ll help you get all your bikes dialed in perfectly.